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Travellers trying on fine toquilla straw hats in a family shop in Montecristi

Coast & sea

Manabí, where Allyson is from: hats, clay and mud

Two days on Allyson’s home coast with the people who make it: toquilla hat weavers in Montecristi and Pile, potters in La Pila, tagua carvers, and a sulphur-mud bath with the Agua Blanca community.

The story

The real home of the Panama hat

The world calls it a Panama hat, but it has always been woven here, in Manabí, from the leaves of the toquilla palm. Allyson grew up on this coast. This journey goes house to house to meet the hands behind its crafts, then washes the dust off in a lagoon of warm sulphur mud.

  1. Day 1 · morning

    Straw before it is a hat

    It starts as a palm leaf. In a village outside Montecristi you watch toquilla fibres being split, boiled and hung to dry on bamboo racks until they turn the colour of sand. The family explains how many weeks one fine hat takes, and why the weaving is listed by UNESCO as part of humanity’s intangible heritage.

    Toquilla straw drying on bamboo racks in a coastal village
  2. Day 1 · midday

    A weaver in Pile, bent over the form

    In Pile, weavers work in the cool hours, leaning over a wooden form with the straw kept damp so it won’t snap. The finest hats here are so tight they feel like linen. You sit beside a master for as long as you like, ask everything, and learn to tell a good weave by holding it up to the light.

    A master weaver working on a fine toquilla hat
  3. Day 1 · afternoon

    Clay that remembers the Manteños

    La Pila is a village of potters. Families shape vessels and figures inspired by the Manteño and earlier coastal cultures, and some will put clay in your hands at the wheel. Next door, tagua nuts, the ‘vegetable ivory’ of the coast, are carved into beads and small animals. You buy straight from the people who made them.

    A potter shaping a clay vessel in an open-air workshop
  4. Day 2 · morning

    Mud, sulphur and a village museum

    Inside Machalilla National Park, the Agua Blanca community looks after a Manteño archaeological site and a small museum of what their ancestors made. Then the lagoon: grey sulphur mud you spread on your skin, let dry in the sun and wash off in warm water. Everyone laughs at everyone, and your skin thanks you.

    Travellers covered in sulphur mud at the Agua Blanca lagoon
  5. Day 2 · lunch

    Viche at a family table

    Manabí cooks with peanuts and plantain like nowhere else in Ecuador. Lunch is viche, a thick peanut and seafood soup, tonga wrapped in banana leaf, and patacones with salprieta. Afterwards, the fishing boats at Puerto López, or the beach, or a nap: it is the coast, after all.

    A Manabí family kitchen with viche and tonga on the table

Your day

Where the bird takes you

  1. Toquilla straw village near MontecristiFrom palm leaf to fibre
  2. MontecristiFamily hat shops
  3. PileA master weaver at work
  4. La PilaPotters and tagua carvers
  5. Agua Blanca, Machalilla National ParkManteño museum and the sulphur-mud lagoon
  6. Puerto LópezLunch, fishing boats and the beach

What’s taken care of

  • A local guide in English or Spanish, from the coast
  • Private transport along the Manabí coast
  • Visits arranged directly with artisan families
  • Community-guided visit and mud bath at Agua Blanca

Good to know

  • Purchases go straight to the makers; fine hats take weeks to weave, so prices are theirs to set
  • Bring a swimsuit and an old towel for the mud
  • Combine with whale season (May to September) or Isla de la Plata

About prices

Every experience is shaped around your group, so we talk first and then send you a proposal made for you. No fixed packages.

Real reviews

Travellers on this experience

18 reviews mention this experience; all are quoted as written, from the platform where they were left.

What a wonderful tour! Allyson was a pleasure and so knowledgeable about the food, culture, and history of beautiful Guayaquil! I requested a custom tour that was food-centric and Allyson was quick to accommodate. We visited a local food market, Mercado de sauces, (unbelievable ceviche!), did a chocolate tasting with Artist/artisan chocolatier Patricia Leon (incredible, unique experience!), and toured the parks and river walk of Guayaquil. I highly recommend Allyson and cannot wait to return to Ecuador!

Mark F. · United States

On time pick up from our hotel. Tour around the highlights of the city. Guide was very knowledgeable and personable but the city itself is just not that scenic.

Trevor R. · United States

Wir hatten einen sehr schönen Tag mit Allyson. Bereits im Vorfeld war Allyson sehr kommunikativ und der Ausflug selbst war bestens organisiert. Vielen Dank Allyson gerne wieder.

Klaus W. · Germany

Alyson is an excellent guide. Her English is top notch & knowledge of the city & the country’s history is masterful. In addition she is a very nice person that we enjoyed interacting with.

Stephen E. · United States

What a fabulous day! Allyson was a terrific guide. She listened to our requests and made sure we were safe and well taken care of all day. The mercado experience was truly amazing. We got a great snap shot of Quayaquil and excellent food. Thanks again for a wonderful day!

Kathleen R. · United States

Lilian was an awesome guide. She arrived on time, stayed long enough to cover everything we wanted to do and did not rush us. She walked with us to all the places on our list and had the cards for the Aerovia cable car to make it easy to purchase the tickets. She told us about which places were safe and kept us away from places that were not safe. She even took us to a great souvenir shop and helped us with the shopping. She went out of the way to recommend vegan restaurants we should try! She also told us of a safe walking route to go see the giant monkey statue (Estatua Del Mono Machín) within walking distance of the hotel but in the median of the Juan Javier Marcos y Aguirre road on the way to the airport. Every attraction on our list was a hit and worthy of the visit - the 444 steps through Las Penas neighborhood to El Faro, the lighthouse, the cable car ride from Malecon to Duran and back to Cathedral, the nearby Cathedral, the Iguana park on the way to the Municipal building and the plaza in front, the Art University all opposite the Malecon, the semicircle Rotonda monument and the 2 things we did on our own - the walk to the giant monkey statue (Estatua Del Mono Machín) and the evening walk along the Malecon near our Wyndham Santa Ana hotel. Remember to wear full sleeves and long pants to stay safe from the bugs near the river eager for human blood as you walk the Malecon in the evening or sit out to eat an eatery off Malecon.

Sightseer788980

We have been on a number of Tours by Locals outings. Before going into specifics, we’ll start by saying that the tour we had with Allyson Aleman on Guayaquil, Ecuador was easily the most enjoyable, informative, and rewarding tour we’ve ever had. Guayaquil is one of the two main jumping-off points for the Galapagos Islands, the other being Quito. Guayaquil may be less well known, but as far as we are concerned, it is absolutely not to be missed. And Allyson is the guide you want to have. She has lived here her entire life, loves the city and its environs, and is incredibly well-connected. We spent an entire day roaming around, and we lost count of how many times people on the street greeted her or were greeted by her, waved to her, shouted out to her: she seems to know everybody in this city of 3 million! This personal connection played great dividends, because she was easily able to get us into any place she wanted to show us because, well, she knows everybody! Our day began with a tour of Guayaquil’s beautiful Municipal Cathedral. We were able to get a rare inside look of a gallery hidden in the walls that encircles the structure high up above the floor, on the back side of stained glass windows depicting over 100 saints. Afterwards we strolled through parks and other sites where Allyson pointed out statues of important figures and gave a us a great overview of Ecuador’s history. We ended up at the waterfront (on the Malecon) and had a look into the fascinating Museum of Archeology and Modern Art, before sitting down for a wonderful lunch at a fine restaurant right by the river. A stop for some of Ecuador’s excellent coffee followed. After strolling through some older neighborhoods we took a cable car ride across the water to have a look at the communities on the other side. We finished our day back at our hotel. Even though the tour was described as 6 hours, Allyson spent well over 7 hours with us. While she offered us rides from place to place, we are walkers and were happy to do all of our exploring on foot. Ecuador is reknowned for its Cacao farms and the chocolate that they produce, and Allyson mentioned that she was available the following day if we were interested in an excursion to one. We immediately agreed, and we were treated to a ride out of the city to Finca Cumanda, a small farm run by Roddy and Alexandra, a couple who are justly proud of what they have built. They showed us the entire chocolate making process (and they let us help!), from hacking open the cacao fruit, extracting and drying the beans, separating and roasting the nuts inside, and finally processing all the way to amazing bars with complex flavors—nothing like the Nestle’s back home! We always thought that Belgian chocolate was the best in the world. The fact is, the Belgians have come here to learn how it’s done! Afterwards Roddy and Alexandra treated us to a delicious traditional lunch, entirely from the farm’s produce. Then back to our hotel, after another amazing day with Allyson Aleman.

Carrie Schore

Allyson is an awesome tour guide as was the tour she created for us. Our tour was for 10 people who all flew into Guayaquil on different days and times. She was very accommodating and patient as we tried to determine the best tour and time. The chocolate tasting was very special and I highly recommend that as part of your tour if it is available. Allyson is very passionate and knowledgeable about all things Guayaquil and chocolate. I highly recommend her as a guide.

Tom A. · United States

61 reviews across ToursByLocals, Tripadvisor, Google Maps, Viator and GetYourGuide.Open the five passports →

Shall we plan it?

Tell Allyson your dates and who’s coming. She replies personally, usually the same day, with ideas and questions; the proposal comes after.