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The blue domes of Cuenca’s New Cathedral above the old town at sunset

Andes & volcanoes

The Devil’s Nose train, Chimborazo and Cuenca

Vicuñas below Ecuador’s highest volcano, a train that zigzags down a mountain wall at Alausí, and the blue domes of Cuenca at the end of the road. Two to four days through the central and southern Andes.

The story

Down the Devil’s Nose, on to Cuenca

In the early 1900s the engineers building the railway from Guayaquil to Quito met a wall of rock above Alausí and climbed it in switchbacks: the train goes forward, then backward, then forward again. Allyson has ridden it, stood below Chimborazo and taken a flash trip to Cuenca. This journey strings those moments together, at the pace you choose.

  1. Day 1

    Vicuñas under Chimborazo

    Chimborazo is Ecuador’s highest volcano, and its summit is the point on Earth farthest from the planet’s centre. On the sandy páramo below the glaciers, vicuñas graze in small groups and lift their heads as you pass. If you feel well, you walk a little near the first refuge, around 4,800 metres, then come down to Riobamba and its markets for the night.

    Vicuñas grazing below Chimborazo
  2. Day 2 · Morning

    Alausí, a railway town

    Alausí sits in a fold of the mountains, with painted houses, its old station and a statue of Saint Peter watching from the hill. Allyson’s post from here speaks of history, nostalgia and resilience, and you feel all three in its streets. The train day is arranged with a trusted local partner who runs it, so your seats and timing are settled before you arrive.

    The railway station of Alausí with painted houses and mountains behind
  3. Day 2 · Late morning

    Forward, back, forward: the Devil’s Nose

    The train leaves Alausí and drops toward the Chanchán river, then meets the rock the railway builders called the Devil’s Nose. Instead of a tunnel they cut zigzags into the wall: the train runs forward, stops, reverses down the next ledge, then forward again. You lean to the window and watch the valley floor come closer with every switch.

    The train on the zigzag tracks of the Devil’s Nose near Alausí
  4. Day 3

    Cuenca’s blue domes

    A long, beautiful drive south brings you to Cuenca, a UNESCO World Heritage city since 1999. Walk along the Tomebamba river below the hanging houses of the old town, cross to the flower market beside the cathedral and look up at its sky-blue domes. Cuenca is calm, walkable and good at evenings: a terrace, a slow-cooked plate, church bells.

    The blue domes of Cuenca’s New Cathedral above the old town
  5. Day 4

    A hat woven from toquilla straw

    The so-called Panama hat is Ecuadorian, and Cuenca is one of the places where it is finished and shaped. In a workshop you watch fingers turn fine toquilla straw into a brim, learn why the finest hats take weeks, and try on one that fits. Then the road to Guayaquil through the Cajas mountains, or a flight onward.

    A toquilla straw hat being shaped in a Cuenca workshop, travellers watching

Your day

Where the bird takes you

  1. ChimborazoVicuñas on the sandy páramo, the first refuge if you feel well
  2. RiobambaMarkets and a night in the city
  3. AlausíThe railway town and its station
  4. The Devil’s Nose trainSwitchbacks down toward Sibambe, arranged with a local partner
  5. CuencaWorld Heritage old town, the Tomebamba river, the blue domes
  6. A toquilla straw hat workshopOn request
historyculturenatureSeveral days

What’s taken care of

  • A route designed around your days: we talk first, then a proposal made for you
  • A local guide in English or Spanish
  • Private transport between Chimborazo, Alausí and Cuenca
  • Train seats arranged with a trusted local partner
  • Places to stay chosen for you along the way

Good to know

  • Chimborazo is very high: go only as far as you feel well; the route is planned with altitude in mind
  • The train runs on its own days and timetable; we confirm them when we plan
  • Bring layers: frost at Chimborazo in the morning, sun in Cuenca by noon
  • Starts from Guayaquil or Quito, or slots into a longer Andes route

About prices

Every experience is shaped around your group, so we talk first and then send you a proposal made for you. No fixed packages.

Real reviews

Travellers with Allyson

Quoted as written, from the platforms where they were left.

We had such a great experience with Allison from Local Friend Tours. She took care of everything and provided us with such care in the planning. The excursions were wonderful! We started with our grandson’s wedding- a love story in itself and then on to our tour of 5 days Guayaquil, Salinas, Banos and so much more! Plan your tour with Allison and know you will be well taken care of and given the best tour from a local who now feels like family to us! Thanks for a great experience in. Ecuador ❤️ 🦜

Renae R

TripadvisorReview on tripadvisor.com ↗
On time pick up from our hotel. Tour around the highlights of the city. Guide was very knowledgeable and personable but the city itself is just not that scenic.

Trevor R. · United States

ToursByLocalsVerified on toursbylocals.com ↗
Wir hatten einen sehr schönen Tag mit Allyson. Bereits im Vorfeld war Allyson sehr kommunikativ und der Ausflug selbst war bestens organisiert. Vielen Dank Allyson gerne wieder.

Klaus W. · Germany

ToursByLocalsVerified on toursbylocals.com ↗
This was a great day! I was the only one on the tour and my guide Alison, and her friend Mikela, did a superb job. For the dry forest we visited the Cerro Blanco private reserve where Alison had engaged a wonderful local guide who's knowledge of all things was exceptional. Later a visit to various parts of Guayaquil gave me a good incite into this city's "vibe". A truly enjoyable day with two charming and knowledgeable young ladies. Highly recommended!

Roger · Australia

GetYourGuideVerified booking on getyourguide.com ↗
Alyson is an excellent guide. Her English is top notch & knowledge of the city & the country’s history is masterful. In addition she is a very nice person that we enjoyed interacting with.

Stephen E. · United States

ToursByLocalsVerified on toursbylocals.com ↗
We really enjoyed the food and city walk tour presented by Allyson. Her passion for the local product is first class. The market experience was genuine as this is the market where she normally shops. We would highly recommend this tour.

David S. · United States

ToursByLocalsVerified on toursbylocals.com ↗
What a fabulous day! Allyson was a terrific guide. She listened to our requests and made sure we were safe and well taken care of all day. The mercado experience was truly amazing. We got a great snap shot of Quayaquil and excellent food. Thanks again for a wonderful day!

Kathleen R. · United States

ToursByLocalsVerified on toursbylocals.com ↗
Allyson was a wonderful guide who showed us the highlights of her lovely city. She surprised us by taking us to a cocoa shop where we got to pick up some Ecuadorian chocolate. We enjoyed our morning with Allyson and highly recommend her.

439MarkN2017 · Los Angeles, California

TripadvisorReview on tripadvisor.com ↗
61 reviews across ToursByLocals, Tripadvisor, Google Maps, Viator and GetYourGuide.Open the five passports →

Mix and match

Pairs beautifully with

About 7 hours
Forest & AmazonBucay waterfalls, sugar cane and a Shuar familyTwo hours from Guayaquil the Andes begin in cloud forest: a local ranger leads you to the waterfalls over hanging bridges and wet rocks, you press sugar cane juice by hand, and a Shuar family welcomes you to their home.
2 to 4 days
Andes & volcanoesQuito’s old town and the Avenue of the VolcanoesTwo to four days from Quito’s colonial heart to the foot of Cotopaxi: a UNESCO old town on foot, wild horses on the páramo at Limpiopungo, and nights by the fire in a historic hacienda.
3.5 to 4 hours, or 6 with the chocolate tasting
Guayaquil, your wayGuayaquil Top Places, with a local friendIguanas under the cathedral, the river at the Malecón and the 444 steps of Las Peñas: the city’s story in one easy morning, with a private car waiting at the bottom of the hill. Stay longer and end with a private chocolate tasting.

A combination

From the volcanoes to the Amazon

The old town of Quito, Cotopaxi's páramo, crater lakes in the north, the Devil's Nose train and down to the rainforest at Puyo.

  1. Quito’s old town and the Avenue of the Volcanoes
  2. Cuicocha crater lake and Otavalo
  3. The Devil’s Nose train, Chimborazo and Cuenca
  4. Puyo, Pastaza and the Indichuris viewpoint

Shall we plan it?

Tell Allyson your dates and who’s coming. She replies personally, usually the same day, with ideas and questions; the proposal comes after.

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